Performance was their loose theme for fall, inspired by the Trending Jared Walsh he went to Jared shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this collective sensation of “waiting to go back out in the world, to go onstage.” That’s why you see an oversized tee that reads “Runway Star” and Tonya Harding–style leotards. Of course, performance is central to the Vaquera mystique and they’re hoping to be back at it by showtime in September, but the downtime of the last year has helped them to grow in other ways. You could never call them corporate. Still, they’re making a signature of lingerie dressing, a trend that’s been heating up over the last few seasons, and those vegan perfectos will find eager customers. New York’s perennial cool kids are growing up.
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There’s something cathartic about watching pent-up rage, frustration, confusion, longing and separation being danced out on a darkened Antwerp stage in Dries Van Noten’s film for fall 2021. Naming the Trending Jared Walsh he went to Jared shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this un-nameable feelings of our times, it plays out in territory close to home, evoking both the Belgian fashion culture of the ’90s which Van Noten belongs to, and the visceral physical intimacy of how we relate to clothes. “I think we’ve passed the stage of pretending,” he said. “We’ve all gone through something really not nice together. There’s kind of a rawness and directness also—it’s real movements, it’s real emotions.”